Mini Split Resources 3

TL;DR Mount the indoor head high on the wall at the foot of the bed, so the air throw crosses the room and mixes before it reaches the mattress. The headboard wall is the position to avoid, because a sleeper sits inside the airstream and cannot move out of it. Where the head already points at the bed, raising the vanes, switching the fan to auto, and adding a degree fixes most cases. Key Takeaways The wall at the foot of the bed is the default best position, because the throw passes over the sleeper and slows before pillow height. ASHRAE Standard 55 caps average air speed at 0.20 m/s, or 40 feet per minute, when occupants are neutral or cooler. High-wall heads are the unit type most prone to blower-wheel mold, which matters before you mount one above a pillow. A wall head senses temperature at the intake near the ceiling, so air at pillow height runs cooler than the remote reads. Placement changes where air moves, not what is in it. The central HVAC filter handles bedroom particles...

TL;DR For most garage conversions and ADUs, a single-zone ductless mini-split is the right system: the space was never in the home’s original load calculation, and no ductwork reaches it. Extend central air only if the conversion is attached, sits beside ducts with verified spare capacity, and a fresh Manual J confirms it. Either way, plan filtration and ventilation separately, because a mini-split’s filter is a coil guard, not an air filter. Key Takeaways A converted garage was never in the original Manual J, so adding it to a right-sized central system starves the rest of the house. The mini-split everyone recommends does little about a former garage’s air quality problem, because its filter protects the coil, not the occupant. Ductless systems often dehumidify worse, so in humid climates budget a dehumidifier too. Check the panel before shortlisting equipment. A legal dwelling unit can need a service upgrade, not just a circuit. Why A Converted Garage Is Not Just Another Room A...